Create a Back Yoke on a blouse with Shoulder Darts - Kathleen Cheetham
You will need:
Table with cutting mat
Grid ruler or T square
Scissors, coloured felt pens, coloured office paper, scissors, scotch tape, pattern weights, pattern awl
A top pattern that has a shoulder dart.In this example, we are using the Shapely Blouse from Singer Perfect Plus by Kathleen Cheetham.www.petitepluspatterns.com
Creating a back yoke is an easy design change to make to a pattern with a shoulder dart. Consider making this change just for the fun of adding variety to your existing pattern wardrobe.
Also, if you have a full upper back and have made fitting adjustments, a back yoke is an excellent way to eliminate the bulk from darts.
Copy the front and back pattern pieces. (See Images “Front A” and “Back A”)
If you’d like extra fullness through the torso, straighten the curve on the side seam and plan to not sew in the torso darts on back or front. (See Images “Front E” and “Back B”)
On the back use a square or a grid ruler to draw a line perpendicular to the straight of grain just below the back shoulder dart. (See Image “Back C”)
From the shoulder seam draw a second line though the middle of the shoulder dart to the first line.
Mark a notch at the end of the dart.
Cut off the top section.
On the lower back section, add seam allowance to the cut edge. If desired, add ¾” for a reverse pleat. Mark the pattern piece as Lower Back, Cut 1 on fold.
On the upper back section (now the yoke), cut through the dart from the shoulder edge all the way to the end. Close the dart and secure with tape. Add seam allowance to the cut edge. Label as Yoke, Cut 2 on fold. (See Image “Back D”)
Patterns: (Right click and choose "Save As" to download.)
Pattern Front 'A'
Pattern Front 'B'
Pattern Front 'C'
Pattern Front 'D'
Pattern Front 'E'
Pattern Back 'A'
Pattern Back 'B'
Pattern Back 'C'
Pattern Back 'D'